I have painted the exterior of multiple campers, from a vintage trailer to a 90’s RV. I’m going to share the simple technique I use and how well it holds up!
Let’s Talk Exterior Paint Jobs
How do you paint the exterior of a camper or RV? Do you spray it or roll it? Do you use a special auto body paint? Do you seal it with some sort of top coat?
How I painted the exterior of my RV is the most frequently asked question I get, and the one I’m most embarrassed to answer!
“Why?” You may ask.
Well, I kind of break all the rules.
I realize I’m going to get some flack for this and some people are going to shake their heads and raise some eyebrows.
I don’t follow the rules for auto-body painting and maybe not even for camper painting.
Here’s why…
**I roll the paint on using regular exterior paint**
That’s right.
I don’t spray it, I don’t use auto paint.
I don’t use a foam roller, I don’t tape things off.
I don’t even remove the decals.
You can shake your head in disgust now.
Go ahead, you know you want to.
“Done” is better than perfect!
Q: Is it perfect?
A: No.
Q: Is it way better than before?
A: Yes.
Q: Am I embarrassed to be seen with it after it has been painted?
A: No.
Q: Was I previously worried about being mistaken for a mobile meth lab?
A: Yes.
Q: Am I worried about it now?
A: No.
Q: Does it hold up?
A: Yes.
Slide the arrow from side to side to see the before and after of our 2012 Salem Cruise
Prep
Here is what I do to prep the surface before painting:
- Lightly sand areas where the decals are bubbling or peeling up
- Optional: you can try and use a heat gun or a decal removing buffer that fits on a drill to remove the decals first. I have personally had zero success with removing decals, so I’ve opted to paint over them! This will really depend on the year of your camper, what kind of siding you have and type of decal. I figured if they’ve stayed on for 20+ years, they can hold up to a layer of paint.
- Power wash everything, including the roof
- Allow to dry thoroughly
- Seal up corners and around all windows with a paintable caulk. I like DAP Extreme Stretch Sealant
- Do any repairs to the roof or siding before painting. Make sure everything is water-tight and clean
- If you are repainting a newer trailer with a shiny exterior, you may want to consider lightly sanding or painting first with a primer like Stix Bonding Primer – I have always painted older campers that had very flat surfaces once I power washed them, so extra steps were not needed
Read: Our 90’s RV Renovation
Decals
Let me talk for a minute about decals. I wasted an entire week of my life trying to remove the decals on our 2012 Salem Cruise trailer. I bought a special decal removing wheel for my drill, I used a heat gun, I used a putty knife, you name it. Those things would NOT come off. Now, the siding on that particular trailer was wavy, not smooth. I think removing decals from a smooth sided trailer would be easier, but maybe not. I vowed that day never to try again! Instead, I have been painting over them ever since.
Does the paint hold up around the decals? Well, I would say for the most part it does. Our RV with smooth sides is holding well. Our last trailer has a couple little spots that started to lift and needed to be repainted. But repainting is easier than spending the time it takes to remove them.
Can you see the outline of the decals under the new paint?
Yes.
But not bad enough to bother me!
Read: 1980’s Vintage Trailer Renovation
Paint
I have had pretty good success with Behr Marquee exterior paint and primer in one. It goes on nice and smooth and covers beautifully. No need for an added primer or extra coats. It has almost always covered in one coat and held up well.
I used a low luster sheen (eggshell) on the exterior of our 50’s vintage trailer because there were so many dents and imperfections in the siding and I wanted a finish that would camouflage them better. The draw back to this, is that dirt doesn’t slide off or clean off as nice as a high gloss. I used a satin finish on our newer trailer and semi-gloss on our current RV! I’m always experimenting.
I was reluctant to paint over the decals on our current RV with a semi-gloss paint, but I wanted to see if a semi-gloss would appear more professional. I’m not sure I really see much of a difference.
Read: Upcycled Vintage Radio to Multipurpose Bar Cart
Supplies
- Latex Paint
- Roller
- Angled brush
*I experimented with an oil based paint once and it cracked and flaked off! Oil based dries to a harder finish which may be too rigid for a moving vehicle (at least that’s my theory).
Painting the Cab
Are you wondering if I did anything special for the cab of our RV?
Do you really need to ask?
In all fairness, I did stop and contemplate it for a while!
I considered all the crazy things I have painted in the past and wondered if painting a CAR with a paint roller was going to look super trashy.
In the end, I just went for it and never looked back!
Read: FOR SALE Updated Salem Cruise Lite
Slide the arrow up and down to see the before and after of Gidget our Vintage Trailer
Pros and Cons to Rolling
So why did I choose to roll the paint instead of spraying it?
Well, I’m just more confident with a roller.
I’ve never been a fan of taping and covering everything up to protect it from the over spray. It’s just easier for me to cut-in around everything with an angled brush and roll the rest on. Would a sprayer produce a more even, smooth finish? Probably, yes. But, because of painting over the decals, I have always figured the roller will produce a slightly textured finish that will hide the decals.
Slide the arrow up and down to see the before and after of our 1980’s Trailer
Slide the arrow up and down to see the before and after of our 90’s RV
Read: Vintage Vs. New, Pros and Cons of Owning a Vintage Trailer
Finishing Touches
Once the paint has dried and cured, I added fun vinyl decals! I made sure the surface was clean and dry before applying. They have held up great with no special sealant needed. I also got a fun vanity plate for the front of the camper. I also painted the door pink!
Find them here:
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Pin-It for Later!
Cost Breakdown for Renovating a Camper
I inherited my 1987 dad’s C class motorhome and I have referred to your blog over and over as I have reno’ed the interior. I don’t know if I have the courage to paint it with exterior house paint! How has yours held up?
Did you remove the decals from the front truck?
DONE is better than PERFECT. Good job girl! Out here in Oregon, because of living costs, I’m seeing more people live in RV’s full time. Not the best situation, especially in the winter. But they are making it. Good to know you improve the looks of your home with minimum costs. Thanks.
Thank you!!!! I have 9 RVs to paint and so happy to hear I can roll them. Xoxo
Hi there! Do you know roughly how many gallons you would need for a 24′ camper? I was hesitant about painting ours, but after reading your blog I am so excited!
Hi Kailyn! It might be close, but it’s possible you could cover it in one gallon!
Hello I’ve read your post several times now as I’m going to be following your tutorial. After lots of internet research I do believe yours to be almost identical to my project (95 four winds motorhome and looks almost the same!) and I really like your results! I suppose I’m mostly worried that I may do a poor job and my neighbors will think its hideous! Lol. So I guess my question is, how have your friends, family and/or neighbors reacted to it? Is it generally positive? Can they tell it’s a home job or would most people have no idea.
That is a great question! Honestly, the reason I usually fix the outside of my campers first is purely for the benefit of my neighbors. I know not everyone loves the look of an RV being stored next to or behind a house, even if it is legally allowed by your city. I know there will always be someone that disapproves of the look, even if it’s a brand new RV. So, my goal is to make it look as less of an eye sore as possible. I have had LOTS of friends, family members and even mechanics that have been impressed with the paint job. Any time we took our RV for an oil change or for new tires, etc. We always got lots of positive feedback. I would just caution you to play it safe with white, black, gray, etc. If you try to do anything too crazy or use bright colors, you risk looking tacky. I always think, how can I make this blend with the rest of my house? I’ve even used the same colors of my house as accent colors! From the road or even standing next to it, you can’t tell it was rolled on by hand. I’d say most people have no idea.
I like that you said that decals held up great without the need for using any special sealant. My friends and I are planning a vacation and we want to take the RV. I’m going to suggest to them about making some restorations to it to avoid failures in the way.
Hello,
I just sent you a comment on how to paint the exterior then I found this post so no need to answer the previous comment. Your campers look great in picture but I have to ask how do they look in person? My Class C is for me and I do not plan on selling her so I am extra scared about painting her – I need to find some courage. You have done well!!!
Hi Benita! All our campers have been used by us first, and sometimes with no intent to sell until we get the crazy idea that we want to reno another one! LOL Every paint job I have done has drastically improved the way the exterior looks. I have had lots of compliments too. If you inspect it really close, you might be able to tell it’s not a professional job, but overall I have been really happy with it. I would just keep it simple – I’ve seen some paint jobs that were really ambitious and looked tacky. If you go with white, you can’t go wrong!
Great post!
I’d like to second Jane’s question about fiberglass. I have a 60s Santa fe and it’s fiberglass. Thanks.
I will try with our 1992 model that loose her paint as tears in the rain :D Thanx!
I recently purchased a 2003 39′ trailer that doesn’t move from the campground and this is all new to me. Learning a lot here which is great as mine really needs a facelift, especially outside as a wash leaves the aluminum showing so a paint job is in the spring planning. Going to take a little time to get everything I want to do to it done. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for commenting, Judy! Have fun with your fixer upper, it will be tiring at times, but the end result is worth it :)
I have a small vintage camper, not sure what the maker of it is. I only have a serial # found on the tongue. It is somewhere in the 50s or 60s I’m guessing. It has 2 doors both with wood screen doors. So cool.
Anyways, i was wondering if you ran into rust around the wheelwells and if so how do I fix them?
Thanks,
Janet
Hi Janet! I have encountered LOTS of rust. On our 1956 vintage trailer, we had a mechanic reinforce the frame where it was so rusted that it wasn’t structurally sound. Around the wheel wells and underneath, I used a wire brush to clean off anything that was flaking off. Then I used a undercoating spray to stop rust and protect it long term: https://amzn.to/2lyIAzg I have also just used regular Rustoleum spray paint that covers rust really well!
Thank you for posting the information about painting your trailers. They look fabulous. Are the outside of the trailers fiberglass? Mine’s a 2000 Citation and it says it is a high gloss fiberglass and I am hoping the Behr paint will work on it too.
Thanks for spreading your experience. Great tips explained. Covered almost every little aspect. Hope this might help campers and hikers. I really appreciate your article, you have given a good insight and a clear picture.
Thank you for your post. You gave me the courage to repaint my 1988 Lazy Daze Class C. While it took a lot longer than I expected, it turned out great.
I have a 1987 Class C with chipping striping did your RV have striping if so was it in good shape or chipping like mine? When you painted over it was the chipping really apparent? Just trying to get the courage to do something with my RV’s exterior.
thanks
Mine was chipping too! I just power washed everything and sanded really well around areas that were chipping. You can try removing the decals first, but that’s up to if you have time and energy for it!
Hello! I love what you have done!! Beautiful! How did you do the ship lap?
Thanks!
I’m getting ready to renovate vintage class c and am wondering how the paint has held up on the cab? Are you able to wash it or power wash it without the paint peeling right off? I’d love to see some close up pics of how the can turned out and how the whole paint job is holding up. Trying to figure out which route to go with the paint. Thanks!
Hi John,
I actually filmed some shots of how the paint is holding up on the cab and will posting about it soon! We have power washed it and taken it through a truck car wash several times and the paint has held pretty well! There are only a few little spots on the hood of the cab where the paint has chipped. I was really rushing against the clock when I painted it in late Fall last year, so it was on the cold side and rather humid. I think that might have affected the holding power just a bit. I’m touching things up now that it is warm and dry.
I am just LOVING reading your camper reno posts!! We just purchased an older (early 90’s) camper and I have been inspired to give it a facelift! I’m wondering if you used the same marquee paint to paint the poles for the roll-out shade cover?
Hi Sarah!
I DID use the same Marquee paint on the poles. Because the poles were a glossier finish then the rest of the camper, the paint has not held up great. There is some chipping in certain areas… it’s not terrible, but in the future I think I’d recommend using sanding them down and using an extra primer if the poles are glossy. I was in a hurry and skipped all the extra steps.